Rivets: A How To Guide

<div id="article_body"><p>Enclosures have become more sophisticated throughout the years, using new methods, technologies and materials in which to construct them. However, while these aspects of case manufacturing may have changed, one thing has not: the manner in which these cases are held together. As you know, rivets in a case are like what nails are to a house. Without the joining of materials together with the aid of a binding item, such as a rivet or a nail, you are surely setting yourself up for failure.</p><p>The simple fact of the matter is that while we rejoice in an age of technological advances and breakthroughs in computer technology, little do we realize or appreciate the stress and extra weight that this puts on an enclosure itself. For example, higher-end computers are now being outfitted with not just one power supply, but two: one for the motherboard and your peripherals, the other solely for your video cards which in themselves are heavy. Another example are the kilowatt PSU's that leading power supply companies are now manufacturing. These behemoths start weighing in at a hefty 10 pounds... this is a vast departure from the 'regular' PSU's that have been on the market for years, weighing around 4-6 pounds apiece, depending on wattage and manufacturer. </p><p>The point is that cases these days need to be robust and built strong enough to withstand the weight that is placed within them. Once you start adding up the weight of components that are installed in a case, such as your PSU(s), your video cards, your hard drive array, your optical media readers and so on, you quickly realize that your case does much more than just house your expensive components; it supports them. People with older computer cases wishing to upgrade, or those with poorly made enclosures will be in for a rough time when they find that their case cannot handle the added extra weight of an SLI setup that is supported by multiple PSU’s. Joints are bound to separate as the rivets that hold them together cannot manage the extra load placed on them.</p><p>As you can see in the following pictures, there are actually two rivets that need to be replaced in my case, a Silverstone SST-TJ03. The top rivet has obviously pulled out from its mooring, and the bottom rivet looks like it will do the same as well if not replaced soon.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BadRivet1.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BadRivet1.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></a></p><p align="center"><img height="667" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BadRivet2.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></p><p align="center"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BadRivet3.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></p><p>However, all is not lost. Rivets that have failed can be easily replaced, and that is what this guide will teach you how to do. The guide will demonstrate how to prep your case for maintenance and then show you how to remove a rivet and replace it with a new one. There are plenty of pictures with detailed instructions to follow so there shouldn’t be any problems completing this project. Let’s go ahead and get started!</p><p><strong>*NOTE* </strong></p><p>Before getting started, I would like to point out that this project requires the use of items and/or tools that could cause potential injury to yourself or others. Always wear your protective equipment when doing this type of work!</p><p>When starting any project, always make sure you have the tools and materials you need to finish it. Nothing is worse than forgetting that one crucial item you need for a project and having to stop in the middle of things to go get it. Here’s what you will need for this project:</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Tools.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Tools.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></a></p><p>As you can see, there are many different types of items and tools shown here. I’ll go through them one by one and explain what they are and what they will be used for in this project.<br/></p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/CordlessDrill.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Drill.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></a></p><p>This is a Craftsman cordless drill. It is a 9.6 volt keyless chuck model. You can pick up a similar model for around $40 to $50 at your local Sears department store. We will be using this to drill out the bad rivets in the case.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetKit.jpg"><img height="667" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetKit.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></a></p><p>This is a multi-pack of steel and aluminum rivets, Craftsman part #74637, also sold by Sears. There are various sizes of rivets that are included in this pack. Nearly all case enclosures use the standard rivet head size of 1/8” diameter. As you can see in the picture, for each type of rivet, there are two numbers associated with it. The first number indicates the head diameter, which in this case all the rivets are 1/8” and the second number refers to the length of the sleeve.</p><p>Take a look at the following picture (Fig. 4) and familiarize yourself with the different areas of a rivet as I will be using these terms throughout this guide.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetQuarter.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetQuarter.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></a></p><p>As you can see in the above example, the head diameter is 1/8”, and the rivet sleeve is 3/8” long. For the purpose of this guide, we will be using two 1/8” x 1/4” aluminum rivets.</p><p>The actual mechanics of a rivet are easy to understand. The grip adjuster and the pin are one unit. The rivet head and sleeve are another unit that slip over the rivet pin. By initiating a pulling action on the pin, the grip adjuster is forced through the sleeve. The sleeve gives way to this pressure and the sleeve material expands. With this expansion and the grip adjuster holding it in place, a load has been created between the head and the grip adjuster in which the materials between them are now securely bonded together.</p><p>For those wondering, I will discuss the merits of using aluminum vs. steel rivets later in this guide.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetGun.jpg"><img height="667" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Riveter1.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></a></p><p>This is a general purpose hand riveter, Craftsman model #74729 sold by Sears. These are extremely affordable, about $10. We will be using this to bind together two pieces of material with a rivet. I will explain its use in much greater detail later on in this guide.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/DrillBits.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/DrillBits.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></a></p><p>Black & Decker drill bits. I have chosen 7/64” bits for this job. The idea is to select a drill bit size that is smaller than the hole in which the rivet occupies. By using a larger sized diameter drill bit, you run the risk of not only drilling out the bad rivet, but also drilling straight through the material, making the hole that the rivet sleeve slides into larger. This is definitely something you want to avoid otherwise you will need the next item to fix the problem.</p><p align="center"><img height="667" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BackingPlates.jpg" width="500" align="bottom" border="0"/></p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BackupPlate.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BackupPlate.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>While not always necessary for successfully replacing rivets, backup plates are useful if you drill your hole too large for the rivet sleeve to fit snugly into. One of the primary reasons rivets gain their strength is how snugly the rivet sleeve can fit into a hole. The less snugly a rivet sleeve fits into a hole, the less strength the grip adjuster in the rivet will impart on the pieces you are joining together.</p><p>The backup plate helps by reducing the diameter of a larger hole into the proper diameter for whatever sized rivet sleeve you are installing, in this case, a 1/8” rivet. By making the diameter of the hole smaller with the backup plate, the grip adjuster is better able to impart its load onto the material. If the hole diameter is too big and a backup plate is not used, the grip adjuster will simply slip through the enlarged hole and no load will be achieved.</p><p>Also, keep in mind that backup plates tend to be thick, so remember to select a longer length rivet sleeve to accommodate the extra thickness of the backup plate and the two pieces of material you are joining together. The backup plates shown are made of aluminum, Craftsman part #74627. For the proper way to install a backup plate onto a rivet, please see Fig. 15 and its de scri ption.</p><p align="center"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Sandpaper.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></p><p>All purpose, 100 grit sandpaper. This will be used to lightly sand down any rough spots that may occur after drilling out the bad rivets. When you mate two materials together, you want to be sure that the areas to be joined are clean and free of any debris or gouges before riveting them back together again.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Dikes.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Dikes.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>Pair of cheapo side cutters. I picked these up for less than a buck. If, for some unknown reason, the riveting gun does not automatically cut the pin off the rivet after full retraction of the handles, these side cutters will make short work of the pin.</p><p><strong>*NOTE*</strong></p><p>Please be aware that the following preparation steps may or may not be required for your rivet replacement activities if your rivets are in easily accessible, non-electrical areas.</p><p><strong>STEP 1</strong></p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/PreppingMobo.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/PreppingMobo.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p><span>In my example, the rivets that require replacement are on the motherboard tray. Since it is a removable tray, I’ll go ahead and take it out of the case, making sure to disconnect all cables, wires and connections before doing so.</span></p><span><p><strong>STEP 2</strong></p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RemovalofCardsandFans1.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RemovalofCardsandFans1.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>Once the motherboard tray has been removed, it is time to strip the motherboard down by removing all cards, fans and other components from the AGP and/or PCI slots. This will aid in removing the motherboard from the tray itself.</p><p><strong>STEP 3</strong></p><p align="center"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RemovalofMobo.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></p><p><span>The locations of the bad rivets require that the motherboard be removed for easier accessibility. It is also worth noting that when we use the drill to remove the rivets, there will be some metal debris. Since we do not want metal particles in or around the motherboard to cause possible short outs, it’s a good idea to remove the motherboard from the tray anyway, even if the rivets are easily accessible.</span></p><span><p>Please keep in mind that <strong>STEP 3</strong> may or may not pertain to you. However, if you have bad rivets in your case that are located near components that are electrically charged, it is always a good idea to remove any and all components near it to ensure not only their safety, but yours as well.</p><p><strong>STEP 4</strong></p><p align="center"><img height="667" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/DriledOutRivet.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></p><p>Now that the motherboard tray is completely stripped of all components, it is time to remove the bad rivets. Using the cordless drill, (you remembered to charge it first, right?) you will use your 7/64” drill bit to ream out the center of the rivet from the <strong>HEAD SIDE ONLY</strong>, not the sleeve portion.</p><p>You will want to use slow, steady pressure, and make sure that you are drilling clockwise, straight into the rivet head and not angled off to one side. The idea is to ream out the center of the rivet, not create a bigger hole where the rivet sleeve sits in.</p><p><strong>STEP 5</strong></p><p>Once the rivets have been drilled out, you may or may not want to clean up the area where the rivets were at by using a sheet of 100 grit sandpaper. This ensures that the mating surfaces of the metal to be riveted together are clean and free of obstructions: we want the metal to be bonded together as solidly as possible. While you are inspecting the rivet holes, you may also want to check to see if you will need to use rivet backup plates.</p><p>In my case, I did not as the rivets did not enlarge the hole or make it out-of-round when they pulled out of their moorings or when I drilled the rivets out. If you discover that you do not need a backup plate, please skip ahead to <strong>STEP 6</strong>. </p><p><strong>*NOTE* </strong></p><p>If you <strong>do</strong> need to use a backup plate for your project, you will want to refer to the next photo which depicts the proper way to install a backup plate onto a rivet. Be advised that the empty space between the rivet head and the backup plate will be occupied by the materials you are riveting together. In other words, the order should be: rivet head, material to be riveted, backup plate.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetandPlate.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetandPlate.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p><strong>STEP 6</strong></p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/DrilledoutRivetPieces.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/DrilledoutRivetPieces.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>Once the rivets have been reamed out and removed, and the area has been touched up with sandpaper, you will definitely want to collect and clean up any metal debris that may have fallen on or around your work surface. The idea is to ensure that no possibility exists that the debris will end up in your case at the end of the project. Just one of these bits of metal could have disastrous and catastrophic effects on your motherboard if they were to short it out.</p><p><strong>STEP 7</strong></p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetQuarter.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetQuarter.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>Now that the first rivet hole has been prepped, it is time to install our rivet. However, before doing so, let’s familiarize ourselves again with the different parts and properties of rivets before proceeding. You can find more information about this by going back to the de scri ptions of Fig. 3 and Fig. 4, as well as looking at Fig. 17.</p><p>Now that we know what the different areas of a rivet are, we need to know which kind of rivet to use. In your pack of rivets, you basically have two types: steel and aluminum. The rivets that are used on my particular enclosure are aluminum, so that is what I am going to use. It is really up to you if you want to use steel or aluminum in your application. Steel is obviously stronger, but I am not sure how well a steel rivet will react with an aluminum motherboard tray. Corrosion or pitting could occur between the two dislike metals, thus making the bond between them weak over time.</p><p>For choosing the appropriate sized rivet for your project, please refer back to the de scri ption of the rivet multi-pack (Fig. 3) Craftsman part #74637, earlier in this guide.</p><p><strong>STEP 8</strong></p><p align="center">><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/InstallationofRivet.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/InstallationofRivet.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>You will want to insert the sleeve of the rivet into the hole with the pin facing out. Basically, you want to ensure that whichever way you orient the rivet, you keep the pin clear so that your rivet gun has room to slide over it. For demonstration purposes, I am installing the new rivet in the same orientation as the old one before I drilled it out. Please refer back to Fig. 17 if you are not sure of the terminology of a rivet. If you require the use of a backup plate, this is the time to install it over the rivet sleeve.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Riveter2.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Riveter2.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>Once the rivet has been properly placed, it is time to break out the rivet gun. The rivet gun is very easy to use, but care must be taken when setting it up for any rivet job you start. The first thing to do is to select the proper sized rivet boss. The three rivet bosses that came with my rivet gun look like this:</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Bosses.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Bosses.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>As you can see in the picture, the three rivet bosses all have different diameter holes in them. This is where the rivet pin slides into. You will want to ensure that you choose the appropriate boss for the rivet you plan to use. You can do this by selecting the smallest diameter hole in the rivet boss but which still allows the rivet to freely slide its pin all the way through without any play around it.</p><p align="center"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetandBosses.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></p><p>In this case, we will be using the smallest diameter boss with our rivet, which is the one that is the furthest to left, on the end.</p><p align="center"><span><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetandBoss2.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetandBoss2.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></span></p><p>The next photo demonstrates how the pin slides into the boss itself.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetandBoss1.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetandBoss1.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p><strong>STEP 9</strong></p><p>Once we have decided on which boss to use, it is time to install the boss onto the rivet gun itself. You can do this with the supplied wrench that came with the rivet gun. While you want to ensure that the boss is secured to the rivet gun, it is not necessary to over torque (tighten) the boss onto the rivet gun. Tightening the boss so that it is snug will do just fine.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetBossWrench.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetBossWrench.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>Here is what the boss looks like properly installed on the rivet gun:</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetandGun.jpg"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/RivetandGun.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p><strong>STEP 10</strong></p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Riveting.jpg"><img title="Fig. 26" height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/Riveting.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p>Now that our rivet is set up with the appropriate rivet boss, it is time to use the rivet gun on our rivet. With one hand, you will want to slide the rivet gun’s boss over the rivet pin until the boss is flush with the rivet head. You want to be sure that the rivet boss is in-line with the rivet itself. You do not want the rivet gun to be crooked or off center on the rivet; this is very important! With your other hand, you will want to tightly hold the metal together that is to be bonded by the rivet.</p><p>The next part is <strong>crucial</strong> for a properly completed rivet. Once the boss is flush and centered squarely against the rivet head, you will firmly exert a <strong>slow</strong> and <strong>steady</strong> pressure on the handles of the rivet gun. You do not want to jerk the handles together, or squeeze them too fast. By doing so, chances are that the rivet gun will become off center and you will have a loose and weak rivet.</p><p>The idea of all this is to allow the grip adjuster to do its job. By allowing time for the grip adjuster to work its way through the rivet sleeve, you ensure that the rivet gun is centered on the rivet head, and that the maximum amount of rivet strength (load) from the grip adjuster is imparted onto the metals being bonded.</p><p>Once the grip adjuster has made its way through the rivet sleeve, you will want to continue to firmly pull the handles together until the rivet pin is automatically cut off by the rivet gun. You will hear an audible ‘snap!’ when the rivet pin has been sheared from the rivet head. If your rivet gun does not cut the pin from the rivet, use your diagonal cutters to do it.</p><p><strong>STEP 11</strong></p><p align="center"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/FirstRivetDone.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></p><span><p>Once the pin has been cut from the rivet head, you are pretty much done at this point. You may want to ensure that the rivet you installed was done properly, and that no sharp points exist on the rivet head from the pin being cut off. Other than that, you are now ready to re-assemble your motherboard tray and put the computer back together. In my case, I had two rivets to replace, so I went ahead and drilled out the second rivet, cleaned up the hole with sandpaper and prepped another rivet:</p><p align="center"><img height="375" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/PrepofSecondRivet.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></p><p>Once the rivet was prepared, I followed the same procedure found in <strong>STEP 10</strong> to complete the second rivet installation.</p><p align="center"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BothRivetsDone.jpg"><img height="667" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BothRivetsDone.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></a></p><p align="center"><img height="667" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/garetjax27/Riveting%20How%20To/BackViewofRivets.jpg" width="500" border="0"/></p><p>Congratulations! You’ve successfully repaired your case. Good job!</p><p><strong>Vendors:</strong></p><p><a href="http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00911533000">Sears Craftsman model #11533 9.6 volt Cordless Drill/Driver</a></p><p><a href="http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00974729000">Sears Craftsman model #74729 General Purpose Riveter</a></p><p><a href="http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00974637000">Sears Craftsman part #74637 120 Assorted Rivets</a></p><p><a href="http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00974627000">Sears Craftsman part #74627 Back-Up Plates, Aluminum, 40pk</a></p><p><a href="http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/AccessoryOverview.aspx?cPath=1496.2514.101">Black & Decker part #19103/14307 7/64" HSS Drill Bit-2 Pack</a></p><p><a href="http://products3.3m.com/catalog/ca/en001/home_leisure/-/node_GSQQYZ6JF1gs/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSHCV1ZFXKge/bgel_GSY3M5CMJ4bl/gvel_L1RBFLRSWGgl/theme_ca_en_homeleisure_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html">3M part #9221NA Aluminum Oxide Sandpaper 4.5” x 5.5”, Medium 100 Grit</a></p><p><a href="http://www.hardwarelogic.com/news/136/ARTICLE/1349/8/homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?prod_id=100079613">Stanley model #84-105 6” Diagonal Cutter</a></p><p><strong>Terms of Agreement</strong></p><p>By using and/or following this guide, you are agreeing that neither I, nor HardwareLogic are to be held responsible for any misfortune caused either to yourself, others, or any equipment involved. This guide was written with the best of intentions in mind, and as far as we know and can truthfully attest, is 100% accurate at the time of its publishing. </p></span></span></span></div>